DOWNLOAD LINKS
LTS V1 DOWNLOAD (version 30/12/2020, ~28 MB) Password: LTSHeadphonesV1
LTS V2 DOWNLOAD (version 30/12/2020, ~155 MB) Password: LTSHeadphonesV2
LTS V2 DOWNLOAD (version 30/12/2020, ~155 MB) Password: LTSHeadphonesV2
USING THE FILES
You need Autodesk Inventor or Inventor LT, version 2019 or newer, or Autodesk Fusion 360 in order to open the ipt. files. If you're a student, you can get a student license for free non-commercial use of the software, otherwise download a 30 day trial of the software, or get a 1-month subscription for the software whenever you need it, which is the most affordable licensing option for occasional use. Whether you can use other types of CAD software to open the files or not, and how successfully, I don't know, you'll have to try and probably have to use some sort of a file type converter for Solidworks, Catia, etc.
Before modifying the files, make sure your CAD software is set to metric units, preferably millimeters, as that's how the parts have been designed and saved.
The 3D models of headphones contain individual parts for the right side ear cups. Certain parts of each headphone are identical for the left and right ear cup, while some aren't. Parts that are different for the left and the right side cups have to be mirrored before exporting the models to STL. files for 3D printing, in order to create a version of the component for the left side. This way, the size of the saved 3D files can stay smaller and working on the files is less demanding for your hardware.
Specifically, on the V1 model, the Baffle, Cup and Cup Shell are asymmetrical, and need to be mirrored to create the left side equivalents, while all other parts are identical for both sides, and should simply be produced in pairs.
On the V2 model, the Baffle, Baffle ring, Filter Frame, Cup, Mainframe, Front hinge attachment and Rear hinge attachment parts are asymmetrical, and need to be mirrored to create the left side equivalents, while all other parts are identical for both sides and should simply be produced in pairs. Both the left and the right hinge yoke parts are contained in the file, so only one of each has to be printed.
All of the parts are designed to be produced using Multi-jet Fusion or Selective Laser Sintering technologies out of PA11, PA12 or reinforced PA materials, so the assembly tolerances are designed into the parts accordingly, with gaps between adjacent surfaces being anywhere between 0.05 to 0.15 mm.
If you're going to use any other method of production, be aware that you're doing so at your own risk and it's up to you to go through the trial and error of discovering what the right tolerance gaps should be in order to create an optimal fit between components, meaning that the parts fit together tightly, but can still be separated without excessive force or damage. You'll probably have to modify the designs and fine tune the tolerances when not using SLS or MJF technologies. I know a lot of people own FDM and SLA printers, but those technologies really aren't up to the level of dimensional stability, accuracy and mechanical properties of industrial methods like SLS and MJF, especially with hobby-grade printers people generally have at home, so I don't recommend using them. SLA and FDM also both need to print supporting structures, which have to be manually removed and which will have a negative effect on the surface finish of parts precisely where the surface finish has to be as smooth and accurate as possible. In addition to that, both technologies are prone to warping, parts most likely that won't be dimensionally accurate enough, and the mechanical properties will be inferior to MJF and SLS produced parts as well.
I highly recommend sticking to MJF and SLS, and use one of the big consumer oriented 3D printing services that are available to you. Services from companies such as Shapeways, iMaterialize, Sculpteo, Xometry or 3DHubs are generally very reliable and easy to use. Which materials you'll choose depends entirely on you, on what you plan to do with the parts, whether you'll post-process them or not, what your performance and quality goals with the build are, and how much money you're ready to spend. All of the above mentioned (and other) companies have extensive material guides and overviews on their websites to help you out, but if you're still unsure, ask me through the contact form and I'll try to help you out.
Before modifying the files, make sure your CAD software is set to metric units, preferably millimeters, as that's how the parts have been designed and saved.
The 3D models of headphones contain individual parts for the right side ear cups. Certain parts of each headphone are identical for the left and right ear cup, while some aren't. Parts that are different for the left and the right side cups have to be mirrored before exporting the models to STL. files for 3D printing, in order to create a version of the component for the left side. This way, the size of the saved 3D files can stay smaller and working on the files is less demanding for your hardware.
Specifically, on the V1 model, the Baffle, Cup and Cup Shell are asymmetrical, and need to be mirrored to create the left side equivalents, while all other parts are identical for both sides, and should simply be produced in pairs.
On the V2 model, the Baffle, Baffle ring, Filter Frame, Cup, Mainframe, Front hinge attachment and Rear hinge attachment parts are asymmetrical, and need to be mirrored to create the left side equivalents, while all other parts are identical for both sides and should simply be produced in pairs. Both the left and the right hinge yoke parts are contained in the file, so only one of each has to be printed.
All of the parts are designed to be produced using Multi-jet Fusion or Selective Laser Sintering technologies out of PA11, PA12 or reinforced PA materials, so the assembly tolerances are designed into the parts accordingly, with gaps between adjacent surfaces being anywhere between 0.05 to 0.15 mm.
If you're going to use any other method of production, be aware that you're doing so at your own risk and it's up to you to go through the trial and error of discovering what the right tolerance gaps should be in order to create an optimal fit between components, meaning that the parts fit together tightly, but can still be separated without excessive force or damage. You'll probably have to modify the designs and fine tune the tolerances when not using SLS or MJF technologies. I know a lot of people own FDM and SLA printers, but those technologies really aren't up to the level of dimensional stability, accuracy and mechanical properties of industrial methods like SLS and MJF, especially with hobby-grade printers people generally have at home, so I don't recommend using them. SLA and FDM also both need to print supporting structures, which have to be manually removed and which will have a negative effect on the surface finish of parts precisely where the surface finish has to be as smooth and accurate as possible. In addition to that, both technologies are prone to warping, parts most likely that won't be dimensionally accurate enough, and the mechanical properties will be inferior to MJF and SLS produced parts as well.
I highly recommend sticking to MJF and SLS, and use one of the big consumer oriented 3D printing services that are available to you. Services from companies such as Shapeways, iMaterialize, Sculpteo, Xometry or 3DHubs are generally very reliable and easy to use. Which materials you'll choose depends entirely on you, on what you plan to do with the parts, whether you'll post-process them or not, what your performance and quality goals with the build are, and how much money you're ready to spend. All of the above mentioned (and other) companies have extensive material guides and overviews on their websites to help you out, but if you're still unsure, ask me through the contact form and I'll try to help you out.